Bandai HG 1/144 RX-78GP03 Gundam

Appeared in: Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory

Estimated duration: 3 weeks

Bandai 1/60 PG MS-06 Zaku 2

Appeared in: One Year War

Estimated duration: 4 weeks

Bandai MG 1/100 Exia

Appeared in: Gundam OO

Estimated duration: 1 weeks

Super G 1/100 Resin Case NZ-666 Kshatriya

Appeared in: Gundam Unicorn

Estimated duration: 12 weeks

Bandai 1/100 MG MSN-04 Acguy

Appeared in: One Year War

Estimated duration: 2 weeks

Bandai 1/60 PG MSZ-006 Zeta Gundam

Appeared in: Z Gundam

Estimated duration: 24 weeks

Monday 23 July 2012

Project #4: Part 5 - 1/100 Resin Cast NZ-666 Kshatriya

Objective:
To complete the model

Duration:
2 days

Highlights:

- Underestimated the waist joint which joins to the lower body. Did a quick fix (cutting off the upper part of the ball joint) to lower it but yet it is high enough to rotate.

- The quad wings are too heavy to be resting on the shoulders. Still pondering on a solution.Will update again when I find a solution...

Anyway, here are the pictures. Check out the Completed models for more pictures.










Thursday 19 July 2012

Project #4: Part 4 - 1/100 Resin Cast NZ-666 Kshatriya

Objective:
Assemble all the lower parts of the body

Duration:
1 day

The Build:

The amazing Epoxy Adhesive:


Do note that using Epoxy  Adhesive is my preferred way of joining the parts. It bonds so well and firm (just remember the working time. Some takes 5mins, 3 mins or etc. And full bonding takes an hour). Definitely stocking this up for my future builds.

While waiting for the bond to cure, masking tapes were used:



No rocket science when assembling the parts was test fitted before painting.

Here are some of the pictures after assembling:





Thoughts: It looks very much like the designer of this Gundam is inspired by beetles... very nice and awesome nonetheless!


Next Post:
Project #4: Part 5 - 1/100 Resin Case NZ-666 Kshatriya

Monday 16 July 2012

Project #4: Part 3 - 1/100 Resin Cast NZ-666 Kshatriya


Objective:
To paint the entire model.

Duration:
1 month

Update: Again... overrun... 1.5 month.

The Colours:

Gaia Notes Lacquer: Vivian green, Black, White, Gun Metal, Bright Silver, Sunshine Yellow and Dark Yellow

Tamiya Enamel: Titanium Silver, Gold Leaf, Dark Iron, Clear Red, Flat Black, Black, Copper and Red.

The Shading: 

As requested in some forums on how I actually shaded my models, I have put up a very simple how-to in this post.

Step 1: 
- Apply Surfacer.
- Apply a base colour.



Step 2:
- Get the actual colour for the model.
- Set the airbrush (preferably double action) such that you can spray a faint line and slowing pull back the trigger until you get a clear line without increasing/decreasing the distance between your airbrush and a piece of paper.


Step 3:
- Study the shape of your subject.
- Start spraying from the same distance as you did in Step 2 with the piece of paper but your trigger should be held at the faint line.
- When you spray, make sure to focus on the center of the surface only. If you do it correctly, the base colour will still show clearly at the edges.
- Increase the distance (roughly 0.5 times more) between your airbrush and the subject. Then spray while holding the trigger at the position that gives you the clear line in Step 2. This should provide a good mist on the subject and smooth out the edges with the actual colour.



Step 4:
- Confirm the shading is even. If not, go back to Step 3.
- Spray a clear coat on top to seal the shading. That's it.

After all the parts are sprayed. Be sure to soak your hands in warm water. Because... its really tiring. (probably I'm not doing it smartly. Any constructive comments on my steps are welcome)

(Do note that this is by no means a perfect how-to. Its just a way of how I understood from Japanese model making books and other websites. There are good how-to sites that explains the techniques in details like Pre-shading, Post-shading, gradation and etc.. Do a quick find in the net.)

The Painted parts:







Next Post:
Project #4: Part 4 - 1/100 Resin Case NZ-666 Kshatriya


Saturday 14 July 2012

Project #4: Part 2 - 1/100 Resin Cast NZ-666 Kshatriya

Objective:
To prep the entire model.

Duration:
1 month

Update: Took more than 2.5 months! Due to work commitment...

The Build:

Well... this is a recast and the packaging is not fantastic. Parts are broken before I even start building.

The Leg
To start off with this awesome Gundam, the legs were the obvious choice for me as I wanted it to stand on its on feet. No frills in assembling but removing the access parts were not easy. Take a look at the feet and see how much you can spot the additional work to rectify the "defects":


Next. To fix the legs to the feet. The ball joints needed some minor work with polyester putty to have a solid fit and the details needed some minor cutting to make it obvious and perfect for painting later on. The end result:



Somethings to take note when cutting off access from a resin:
1) Do not cut exactly on the actual body parts as it will crack or chip off unnecessary. Instead file it down where ever necessary.
2) Hold each parts against a strong lighting to reflect any bad molding before cutting as it will prevent more additional work.
3) Polyester Putty is a fantastic material to work with (except for its smell. Work in a well ventilated environment to ensure you do not faint in front of your model)
4) Read that resin is bad for health, so I used "wet sanding" (means using sandpaper and sand the part under running water or a basin) throughout the build.

The Head
Something interesting for this part...





Note: Realised that in the anime, the eye is red. Thus went to change the LED from Green to Red.

The Arms
This is the best part to work with. The open and clench hands looks fantastic. But it's visible seams need to be cut ensure all fingers are obvious for the open hands. For clench hands, each fingers needs to be shaped using the modelling knife to ensure all fingers are rounded. Tough but worth it:

The shoulder joints are horrible. 2 options:
1) To joint them then put putty
2) To sand it flatly and join them.
I choose option 2 to save time and the results were good.

The final results after sanding and fitting:



The Torso
This is the part that has the most polyester putty due to its bad molding.
Just take a look:


Note:
Masking and painting are very tough. Patience... but worth it.

The "Wings"
Awesome to look at at its shape, superb to stare at the details but fitting is a nightmare!
The access were so thick and hard, smoothing it out takes a lot of effort. (Using my Dremel is out of the question as it will produce so much resin dust!)

The small additional arms which are attached to the wings are pretty fragile. Few fingers broke during the process of fitting the parts together.