Bandai HG 1/144 RX-78GP03 Gundam

Appeared in: Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory

Estimated duration: 3 weeks

Bandai 1/60 PG MS-06 Zaku 2

Appeared in: One Year War

Estimated duration: 4 weeks

Bandai MG 1/100 Exia

Appeared in: Gundam OO

Estimated duration: 1 weeks

Super G 1/100 Resin Case NZ-666 Kshatriya

Appeared in: Gundam Unicorn

Estimated duration: 12 weeks

Bandai 1/100 MG MSN-04 Acguy

Appeared in: One Year War

Estimated duration: 2 weeks

Bandai 1/60 PG MSZ-006 Zeta Gundam

Appeared in: Z Gundam

Estimated duration: 24 weeks

Wednesday, 24 June 2015

Project #13: Tamiya 1/16 RC Leopard 2A6 Full Option Kit


The military model making got the better of me this year... so naturally this project is my top priority.

Got this kit when I was on a family trip to Osaka in 2015.
It was a very memorable trip as it was exactly on my birthday when I touched down Osaka. 
Dropped my luggage and head directly to the hobby store to buy it (cost me a bomb if you must ask...). 
The journey back to hotel was no joke as this kit weighs in at least 10kg. 
Might not seemed a lot, but considering the train rides plus the stairs to climb plus.... you get the point.

Anyway, this kit was a childhood dream come true.
Not building it well will not do it any justice. 
Hence, I'm making sure it turns out just the way I visualise it.... Neat and pristine condition!

The Box Art

Beautiful right?
Even a full grown adult is attracted to it. What more for a kid.
But the price of this kit is no joke..

PS: My MG 1/100 Exia is there to give you an idea how big the box is. 

There's more...
Since this is a Japan kit, it comes with a controller!
To keep up with current RC trend, it had included a 2.4GHz controller + a 7.2V battery.

The Build

If you have built any Master Grade or Perfect Grade Gundam, then this is a walk in the park.
Moulding seams are plenty, just take your time to scrape it off with your hobby knife or sand it down with #400 and #800 grit.
Joint seam are found only on the barrel evacuator assembly. What I did was to coat the entire metal barrel with metal primer then assemble the evacuator. As with Tamiya quality, the contact surfaces are near perfect without any hand fitting.

Other than the above, its really straightforward. 
That is unless you want yours to be factually correct to the real deal (See here).

Some more pictures to show you what you are going to be building if you decide to build one.

The Painting

Ok. Now comes the tough part... Why?
Because its too damn BIG!
Even my 1/144 Dendrobium cannot match this!
I don't even know where and how to start when I look that the tank's chasis.
In the end, I had to turn on 2 spray booth to extract all the fumes. But that alone did not help. By the end of the painting, my lungs felt uncomfortable. Went for a swim to "release" that toxin (lying to myself again for the sake of this hobby)

Ok... grumbled enough.. here are some facts:

1) Black surfacer throughout the tank. (leave the muzzle break out as instructed by the manual).
2) Gundam Green for the entire base coat. (Tamiya suggested to use Nato Green but I find that Nato Green will be too dark.)

The result

3) Nato Brown and Nato Black for the camouflage.
4) Tonnes of gloss clear (3 coats as this is an RC which will help prevent scratches)
The result:

5) After detail painting, add tonnes of flat clear. (Tanks cannot be glossy right?)

The result:

After the flat clear coat, the camouflage blended in nicely. 
A very satisfied achievement with the expense of weaken lungs.... 

Lesson learned:
1) For size like this, buy those Surfacer Spray Cans and spray outdoor!
2) To achieve the shadow, use airbrush for pre-shading then use those Spray Cans to give it a base coat
3) Buy Clear Spray Cans for your top coating.
With the above, it will definitely save time and your lungs!

The Assembly

Assembling the drivetrain. Noticed that I have added metal gears instead of the original gear provided. Read from internet that these gears are prone to stripping. So.. why not just put it in?

the wheels. Changed to full ball bearings instead of bushing. Suspension arms changed to metal ones instead of the plastic ones provided.

the lower deck ...

the upper deck...

the barrel...

the turret... Taking note that a 0.2 mm self made shim using plaplate is a must else turret cannot turn 360 degrees.

finally... (wiring nightmare.. took more than an hour to make sure its properly layout)


Excellent kit! Runs beautifully with its shear size and weight.
Easy to build, great centre display piece and infinite ways to enjoy outdoor tank wars with my kid!

After my struggle with 1/24 Hi-Nu Gundam Bust build then this overwhelming sized tank to paint, I really need a good break....


the King Tiger and the new Type 10 is definitely in my list of collectables. 
Problem is... where can I get that extra money and justification to buy those... hmm...

Will my next project be an easy one?
Stay tune to find out!

Thursday, 4 June 2015

Just completed a review on this compressor!
Check it out here.

Monday, 19 January 2015

Project #12: 1/24 GSM Hi-Nu Bust


To add an iconic model into my display.

The Box

The Build

Pretty straightforward and a typical garage kit.
There are warp pieces which need to be heated back to shape and some pieces are too small to fit. So do expect to have a lot of fittings, putty and sanding if you decide to work on this.

Notice that I have completed the base first. This is a lesson learnt from my last Bust model build. With the base done up, I can visualise how the entire presentation will be like and it also acts as a base for my fitting.

The holes are either too small or too big to fit the brass wire. Improvised by having an aluminium hollow rod. See pictures below.

The electronics.... I still suck in soldering....

Note: The instruction either has a mistake or I am just lousy with wirings. For the lights at B, it does not seem to light up as instructed by the manual to connect the positive to the white wire. After some trial and error, I finally got all LEDs lighted up. The solution is to have a wire from A to B. Weird...

The Painting

Instead of following the box art and the pictures that came with it, I have decided to follow the latest colour scheme from Bandai's MG Hi-Nu Ver. Ka.

Surfacer = Mr. Hobby Resin Surfacer
Base = Black (except for those red parts. I used white instead)
Neutral Grey 3 and 2 for those Grey parts.
Midnight Blue for shading then 90% Midnight Blue + 10% Bright Orange for highlight
Violet Purple for shading then 85% Violet Purple + 15% white.
Bright Red for shading then 90% Bright Red + 10% White for highlight
Florescent Green for the glass effects on the eyes and such.
Bright Orange Yellow for the vents.
Metallic colours for the rest.

Do expect a lot of masking.

Plan the painting in sequence to avoid rework. So this is what I did.

1) Paint all the light colours like Red, Orange Yellow and such. Then mask it.
2) Paint the Metallic colours like Bright Gold and Chrome. Then mask it.
3) Paint Black all over for the base coat. Then start the rest of the shading.

May not be the best way. But it works for me.

Here's are the painted parts.

All tucked nicely into the dry booth!

Then the decal process, panel lining and clear coat! A simple statement to cover the entire scope on what I did for the past 1 month!

Note: Be careful with large waterslide decals! To me, its tough. If it breaks, its will be obvious and ruin all the effort so far! Luckily I managed to overcome it and it turned out great! Have a look!

1) No rocket science. Just make sure the decal is wet (not soaking wet) until you get it to the right position.
2) Use the cotton bud to absorb the Decal setter liquid from the centre to secure the position.
3) From the center point in step 2, work your way outwards to push all the bubbles out slowly.
4) Use a dry cutton bud to tap the decal to conform with the surface texture.
That's it!


If there is only 1 word to describe this step. I will have to say... HORRIBLE!!!
Not because the model is bad, but its due to my lack of knowledge in wirings and soldering!

To ensure all the LEDs, sensor and the moving mechanism are working, every assembly, I will connect and test. And this paid off! 1 of the LED for the eye is not working! Thank goodness!

Here are the assembly pictures. (And seriously.. looking at the pictures still give me the nightmare):

Head first! Its a personal habit. Start with the toughest!

Now the lower half mechanism

Damn! The LED did not light up again! What the F happened.....?
Only to find out that part of the wired has broke. So I have to cut it off and rejoin it... Phew...

A strategy to solder the wires on painted parts is to use a paint bottle cap. Just make sure the bottlecap is a clean one else you got more work to do...

Now for the rest...

The springs are no joke... Be extra careful. It rebounded back and gave me a deep cut on my finger...


Finally!!!! To write this blog and to post its pictures here means I have survive the ordeal!
The end result is satisfying.

Note: Somehow, the pictures does not show the purple well.